British Columbia and Northern Vancouver Island are home to generations of remarkable peoples and cultures, with a history stretching back millennia. 

The First Peoples, along with settlers and more recent newcomers, have shaped a land rooted in tradition… a place where the Pacific Northwest’s unique heritage is forever tied to both land and sea. The province itself is home to over two hundred Indigenous Nations, each with its own customs, traditions, and amounting to thirty-six distinct languages. This ongoing evolution reflects a vibrant people where centuries and cultures intersect, sharing values through art, totem poles, ceremonies, and a collective connection to humanity that celebrates the Island’s extraordinary diversity.

Recently Chris and I had the privilege of touring the newly built “Big House”… a significant and meaningful milestone in Port Hardy for two Nations, Gwa’sala-‘Nakwaxda’xw people of Northern Vancouver Island. 

In 2025, these two Nations celebrated the return of this cultural space after more than fifty years without one! In the 1960s, government authorities forcibly relocated the Gwa’sala and ‘Nakwaxda’xw from their ancestral lands along Smith and Seymour Inlets (including Takush, Blunden Harbour, and Ba’as) to the Tsulquate reserve in Port Hardy. Although they were provided european-style single-family homes, the indigenous community was not given a “Big House;” an essential space of profound cultural and spiritual significance. The absence of this traditional gathering place severed a vital link to their identity and heritage.

The Big House, or Long House, has always been central to Indigenous community life. Traditionally, these impressive cedar structures sheltered extended families or entire clans, providing warmth, comfort, and a tangible sense of belonging. Under one roof, multiple families shared daily life, responsibilities, and resources. The Big House functioned as a hub for governance, education, storytelling, ceremonial gatherings, feasts, potlatches, support, and the vital passing down of traditions, kinship, and social status. It was, and remains, the heart of social organization and cultural continuity of a proud people; a powerful cultural theatre of learning, belonging, and symbol of unity.

As we entered the Big House, we were immediately struck by the beauty of its cedar interior. 

The walls, rafters, and ceiling all crafted from red and yellow cedar…. Wonderfully enveloping a sand-covered floor, with a central fire pit and raised benches along the sides. 

At each end stood cedar doors flanked by four elaborately carved totem poles, stretching from floor to ceiling. These poles, sourced from Belize Inlet and Nahwitti Lake, were transformed into representations of dzunukwa (the woman of the woods), beavers, thunderbirds, and a kolus (little thunderbird)…. all symbols of the Gwa’sala-‘Nakwaxda’xw. Master carver Junior Henderson, with the assistance of Walter Brown, Jeremy Wamiss, Alex Heuman, and Talon George, brought these forms to life. 

Carving techniques have been passed from elder to mentee for generations. The crests were chosen by elders and designed by Bill Henderson Jr.’s uncle, who also passed down his expertise. Relatives Jonathan and Greg Henderson, master carvers, contributed to this important collaborative project.

As we viewed the architecture and artistry of the Big House, from its immense cedar beams to its carved house posts, it spoke to us of stories of ancestors, community laws, and the sacred relationship between people and the land… a respect we are called to honour. The historical significance of the structure made us even more prideful of our North Island, its forested naturalness, mountains, and rugged coastal marine environment.

We both saw in the Big House’s artistry proof of the enduring spirit and heritage of the Gwa’sala-‘Nakwaxda’xw. 

The gukwdzi (Big House) is more than a wooden structure; it is a living legacy that will nurture community, culture, and identity for generations of young people to come, as well as the broader multicultural populations of Port Hardy.

The air was thick with the scent of cedar, and sunlight filtered through the ceiling, casting patterns across the painted totem designs. These poles symbolizing clans and history, served as a tangible link of a people to the land and sea. 

The massive yellow cedar logs centuries old supporting the roof, were carefully chosen from the ancestral forests of the Nations. Each log, gathered from Smith Inlet, Seymour Inlet, and neighbouring islands, carries the spirit and story of its homeland, reinforcing the Big House’s role as a living symbol of a People’s connection to the land.

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In this space, I felt the presence of generations past…. imagining the beat of drums, dancers in traditional regalia celebrating life’s milestones, and elders sharing stories of legendary beings and life lessons. 

I felt the Big House not only as a restored cultural symbol but also a vital place for affirming identity and connecting the past with the future. 

It is destined to serve as the heart of the community’s spiritual and social life, hosting gatherings, ceremonies, and decision-making. The resurgence of this sacred space brings hope and healing and fosters reconciliation with the past, ensuring the survival and renewal of the Gwa’sala-‘Nakwaxda’xw culture for those yet to come.

Our hosts generously shared insights into the building process, the obstacles they overcame, and the deep significance the Big House holds for the community at large. 

The pride of the construction team was evident as they described how the gukwdzi will once again be a site for potlatches, feasts, and teachings for youth and elders alike. 

We felt both welcomed and humbled, enveloped by the warmth of community, and the weight of history lessened at every turn. Standing within the vast, cedar-filled space, surrounded by symbols of clan and history. 

We were moved by feelings of hope and renewal in the new Big House.

Christine and I were sincerely grateful for the invitation to experience the new gukwdzi firsthand. The sheer scale of the interior, capable of hosting over a thousand people, was matched only by the beauty of the hand-carved totem poles and beams that tell the stories of the ancestors and the living Nation.

We are thankful for the opportunity to witness this monument to past, present, and future, to share in the Big House spirit, and all that it brings to the Gwa’sala-‘Nakwaxda’xw Nations.

Safe travels,

Gord